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Mina’s Past

An Excursion To Findley Lake Reveals History

A father and son enjoy the view of Findley Lake from a tree stop (printed with permission). Photo by Sandy Robison

On any given Sunday, my sister and I are likely to take a ride on the backroads of Chautauqua County. We are driven by the love of place and history. Recently, I was recalling a trip to French Creek with my father when I was a child, maybe four or five. We had stopped at a spot along the creek, which encounters the highway at a dozen different places on the old road from Sherman to Findley Lake. Fishermen dotted the hillside by a bridge. The sun was bright. The day was fine. Such images hold forever in our minds. So last week, we headed out Interstate 86 and got off at the last exit in New York state, Exit 4. The signs read Findley Lake, this way. Thoreau’s line from Walden “Time is but a stream I go a fishin’ in” came to mind. That’s certainly true for me.

The Town of Mina is the last “town” in New York state, located in its westernmost corner on the border of Pennsylvania. It encompasses some of the prettiest rural and village views in Chautauqua County and includes the village of Findley Lake, worth a visit on any given Sunday drive.

Findley Lake was settled by Alexander Findley of Ireland who, charmed by its location on French Creek and its original two ponds, bought the land from the Holland Land Company and settled there, ultimately constructing a dam which made one fine lake out of two ponds. All these years later, his little village is as charming as it was in the 19 th century with a variety of antique and gift shops that draw visitors from several states on a regular basis. Findley Lake calls itself the town of four seasons. The resort of Peek’ N Peak Resort and Spa is but a few miles from the center of town; snowmobile trails are abundant in the area. On any pretty day in autumn, it is a beautiful place to visit and shop awhile

The lake itself sits at latitude 42 degrees north and 79 degrees west at an altitude of 1420 feet above sea level. It was formed in 1810 when land owner Alexander Findley “dammed the West Branch of French Creek” (French Creek Watershed Conservation Plan). The Erie Indian Nation probably lived nearby, a tribe eventually vanquished by the Seneca around 1656. Robertson writes, “Near the state line, immediately west of the village, there is a well-marked oval fifty yards long and half as wide which was unquestionably a fortified Indian encampment.”

From an interesting historical document, Incidents in the History of Mina by Carlton Robertson we learn that George Washington himself — then just a callow 21-year-old soldier– may have taken refuge at Findley Lake when headed from Fort LeBoeuf (established during the French and Indian War at a curve on French Creek near current Waterford, Pennsylvania) to Fort Niagara by Buffalo one winter. Near Chautauqua Lake, Robertson says, Washington encountered “inclement weather” and “hostile” Native Americans, probably Iroquois. The young Washington chose to turn back and away from Chautauqua Lake and found himself at a “woodland lake” where he and his companion are said to have spent three nights at “the island” between the two lakes. His trip down French Creek and on to the Allegheny is recorded in history books.

Photo of Findley Lake courtesy of Town of Mina website.

Historically, the lake and the town drew a Utopian community to its shores in the mid-19 th century where at one time it offered a 2000 seat Amphitheatre rivaling Chautauqua Institution’s and similar cultural offerings of the cultural and social movement to bring education to the people. According to the Town of Mina website, “In 1896 a Reverend Lilley and Dr. Langdon along with some local businessmen started a Chautauqua type movement called ‘Lakeside Assembly.’ “People arrived from various parts of America to take classes and to participate in arts and crafts. They also “came to enjoy professional speakers, all around entertainment and education. Cottages, hotels and refreshment places were built,” Robertson writes, “People came from far and near. They crowded into the barnlike auditorium and heard the most eminent speakers and the most gifted musicians of the day. They saw drama on the stage produced by a school of elocution, which was induced to make its headquarters here.” For a while, Shakespeare had his place in Findley Lake.

Something about Chautauqua County enchants the heart and calls to those who visit time and again. It has some of the most beautiful vistas in New York State — broad swaths of rolling farmland, tall coniferous dark forests, architecture from an age where house building was its own artistry. On a drive through the Town of Mina travelers enjoy a variety of architectural style homes still sound on their original spots 100 years past their building — Queen Anne, Gothic, Stick, Western Reserve, and Greek Revival houses are everywhere in towns and in lone spots along rural roads. Wildflowers line the roads in three seasons–purple asters, Jonquils and sunflowers, Black Eyed Susans, bright orange Tiger Lilies. The roadsides are awash in color at any time in three seasons.

As a child, Findley Lake and French Creek were two of my father’s favorite Sunday drives. I recall stopping for ice cream and a walk in the field along some portion of French Creek, which though it seems but a meandering creek or stream in some places is actually a major waterway that winds its way ultimately to Pittsburgh and on to the Mississippi River and the Gulf of Mexico. The little creek connects this corner of western New York to the rest of America in its own way. My father would chat on and on as he drove while we all listened about the War of 1812 and the importance of the Battle of Lake Erie. The brave Oliver Perry led that battle for Americans, dad would say, sweeping his arm in the air in a northwest direction indicating Presque Isle, near Erie, Pa. They were brave Americans, he added, nodding, stalwart, of admirable mettle, Americans intent on independence and freedom of cause. Perry built all the ships in a winter harbor at Presque Isle where crews and soldiers suffered from cold, fatigue and lack of adequate food. But they went on to fight and win a major battle in the war at Put in Bay, Ohio, where historians say, the war turned in our favor. Some critical battles in the French and Indian War and the Revolution as well were fought nearby in northwestern Pennsylvania. This is historic land. I hear my father’s voice as we drive along. No doubt it was he who engendered my love of place and history, landscape and story. His lyrical voice is ever in my ear.

Today, visitors can wander the many stores and enjoy shopping for antiques. Foremost in its attractive shops is the Our Own Candle Company where one may wander two buildings filled with some fine boho fashions, jewelry and clothing, candles, heady scents, and aromatherapy. We chose some of our favorite candles and soaps to take home with us this time. It’s a great place to shop for Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas too. The store packs and ships to customers worldwide.

On our way back to Jamestown, we drove Route 426 south to Route 474 across miles of verdant, undulating farmland, past barns and grazing horses and dairy cows. We stopped at a favorite dining spot, the Dutch Village in Clymer, for a cup of soup and coffee plus a piece of homemade pie. Vicky had blueberry while I enjoyed a slice of coconut cream pie with meringue four inches high. Thus we move easily from history to geology to pie, or as mother would have said, from the sublime to the mundane. We are all fishing in the stream of time, memory, history, geology, geography. It’s all part of living, and it’s all glorious.

Shown are several storefronts in today’s Findley Lake. Photo by Sandy Robison

I find myself enchanted as much with memory as with landscape and history. My sister and I sipped our coffee and spoke easily of past and present, future and dreams. She shares my father’s proclivity to talk and his joie de vivre, two gifts that make her the best of companions. I am a far quieter and contemplative traveler. But on any given Sunday, we love our explorations of Chautauqua County, and Findley Lake will call us back.

Pictured are western shoreline homes in Findley Lake.

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